This is “one” of the website (Dave’s Garden) I use to get information on plants. The searches are limited unless you subscribe or become a member (which is free)

You can buy/sell plants in the DG Martket Place ( I might try selling a few cuttings there I will let you all know if they sell or not to waste your time), read forums, ask for help, submit plant pictures, etc… It is defiantly a website you want to check out! Just remember to come back here, lol.

Find your plant by searching PlantFiles:
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Niki

Finding Out What I Bought!

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I have already put the Cactus and Succulents plants I got from Kmart in bigger pots (all but one, I need to find a pot for it). They were all ready for bigger pots . The picture above is of the one that I have not re-potted and two that I did. The bigger one of the two in the same pot is the one I have had before. I just could not remember the name of it, so I started my search online. I have come across a few possible names: Velvet Rose or Hen & Chicks. However Hen & Chicks sounds sounds right to me (at least that is what was on the label on my other plant). I think Hen & Chicks is more of a “type” of plant and there is a few plants that can be called that. If you look at the smaller plant in pot with two, you will see that that plant looks very similar to the other one. It just does not have the red/pink around the edges. I do not normally put two plants in one pot but I did this time for a couple reasons: 1. I had no pots that small enough for just one plant 2. I figured since they were similar plants they could be able to live together in the same pot (but they could also share diseases which is bad). We will see how they co-habitat the pot.

I have no clue what the plant in the small pot is, but it is cool looking!

Here is a link to a picture and article about Hen & Chicks

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This picture is of the rest of the Cactus and Succulent plants that were in the set. I have seen the light green (back of pot) plant before, my mother-in-law had one but it died (Hopefully mine don’t die so I can give her a cutting). I have no idea what the name of it is though. I am still looking online, but the problem with trusting information online is you never know if it is true. That is why I always try to “confirm” information off-line before I consider it truth.

The one in the front (on technically the right side of pot, but it is the left side of the pot when you are looking at the picture) is really cool. I have never seen it before. It is one of the plants that made me buy the set. The bubble like leaves seem to be fill with goo like an aloe plant.

The last plant is another one that I have not seen before and I am still looking for the name.

If you think you know the name of any of these plants, please leave a comment.

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Here is some planting tips from Sorensen Greenhouses Inc. website. Check out their other “guides”. I could not get the “plant search” to work. maybe it will later (or another day).

Tips for planting your own Cactus and Succulent Garden:

Question: Can I buy plants in separate pots and plant them together to make a garden? Can I plant Cacti and Succulents together?

Answer: Yes to both questions, below are some tips to planting your home garden.

Pick out your planter or garden

* Look for a shallow pot, cacti and succulents are slow growers and too large or deep of a planter will promote over watering and rot.

Pick out your plants

* Look for different heights, it looks better if the plants have a mix and gradual height difference.
* A good rule to remember is an odd number looks better than even; it is more visually appealing.
* Look for different colors such as reds, yellows, blues, and even whites.
* If planting cactus and succulents together try picking out Sedum’s and other types of succulents that tend to grow in a hanging pattern. ~ Place these plants toward the front for a dramatic trailing effect.
* Plant larger and taller plants towards the back and add in shorter more compact plants to the front. Try to select plants that are all different heights for more visual appeal.
* If planting succulents and cactus together space succulents away from cactus to prevent damage.
* When planting your decorative garden for the best visual appearance make the garden look good from all sides.
* When using a larger garden you can buy larger potted plants, but when choosing a smaller garden choose smaller potted plants.
* Don’t over-crowd your planter with time it will fill in.

To Buy List

* A decorative shallow planter
* A nice selection of Cacti and Succulents
* Standard cacti and succulent soil mix
* Decorative stones or gravel if you want to add a special touch to your finished garden
* Gardening gloves if you don’t already have them (Cacti thorns like to bite)
* Fertilizer (20-20-20 is fine for this project)
* A small shovel (a spoon will also work great)

How to plant my Cacti and/or Succulent garden

* Select an area for this project that has enough room to lay everything out.
* If working in the house lay newspaper down on your work surface to prevent mess and easy clean up
* With your plants still in their pots place them down on your work surface in the order or arrangement to plant.
* Fill your planter with soil loosely up to ¾ to the top.
* Starting with the larger/taller plants remove them from their pots and loosen and break away some of the old soil being careful not to damage the roots.
* With your spoon or shovel dig a hole in the soil large enough to accommodate the plant and place in being careful not to plant too deeply. (Minimally above the old soil line.)
* Continue to do this with all of your plant selections until the planter is full.
* Leave a small amount of space between plants, they will fill in.
* Top up with soil if necessary.
* Decorate top with decorative stones or colored sand for a finished appearance.

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Niki

New Plants!!

When I buy (or get) a new plant, I am flying high for a few days. I have like no room for any more plants but I cannot help myself. They were sitting there in Kmart all dry and sad. I had to bring them home with me,lol.

I bought six little plants (Cacti & Succulents), all but came in a tiny terracotta pots. I have never seen ones so small. The “greenhouse” that they were in is cool too (a small plastic greenhouse like container with air vents) , I am going to try and start some seeds/plants in it next spring.

I wish I knew the names of all the plants I got (I will have to look them up). I have had one of them before (but it died). This is different from the one I had before, my old one was not “tree like” as this one is (”tree like”, has one thick stem like the trunk of a tree).

One of them I have never seen before.

I have already put all but one of them into bigger pots because they needed it.

Funny Note: These plants came from a greenhouse in Canada, lol. I just think it is funny that Cacti and Succulents like this are grown commercially in Canada (by Sorensen Greenhouses Inc, check out their website!).

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On one of the other posts, someone left a comment asking about mushrooms growing in her houseplant. The answer I gave was from personal experience however, it made me want to find out more.

From AllExperts.com
“Fungal molds usually only occur if you do one or more of the following:”

·Use Unsterilized potting soil, garden soil or compost;
·Use a soil mix that is compact and doesn’t drain well;
·Add food substances to the soil, such as soda or coffee;
·Keep your plants constantly wet and/or in low light.

Here is a link to some info about getting rid of them (click here)

I have never had a yellow mushroom growing in my house plants, only white. However from what I read they can be yellow.
(Read about Yellow Mushrooms)

Bottom line: Mushrooms growing in your houseplants soil is no big deal. They will not harm the plant or its growth. The only cautions I could find was about eating them (this is kind of a “duh” caution, most people know not to eat mushrooms that they did not buy from the store or know for a fact that they are eatable.)

On one website someone said that mushrooms growing in soil is a sign of fertile soil, but I do not know how true that is.

Watch this 45 seconds Video of Mushrooms!!

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Niki

Rubber Tree (cont.)

The Rubber Tree is a popular plant and can be found growing indoors and out. It had thick, shiny, oval shaped leaves that are usually dark green (sometimes a burgundy). The leaves can get eight to twelve inches long and they can come in various colors of dark green, deep maroon or marked with yellow, cream, pink or white.

Indoors a Rubber Tree can get five to eight feet tall in just a few seasons. Outdoors they can grow as tall as any other tree (20+). However their survival outdoors depends on what “zone” you live in. This plant being a tropical plant it would do best outdoors in Hawaii (and places with similar climate. It all makes sense when you know where it originated from, keep reading).

Rubber Tree (or Plant) is native to India and Malaysia. Also know as Ficus elastica, this plant is one of earliest houseplants. Because of its easy propagation the Rubber Tree has been a favorite of houseplants enthusiast worldwide. (Propagate with cuttings or air-layering)

Not only is it easy to propagate it is an easy plant to care for. Rubber tree’s will adjust to almost any kind of light, if you have to place it in a low-light area it will survive (be nice to your plants, do not let them stay in low-light areas for long if they are not meant for low-light. Yeah a kid will survive in a closet but not forever. You have to let him out sometime, it is the same for a plant (note: DO NOT PUT A KID IN A CLOSET IS WAS AN EXAMPLE!!).

Improper watering is the only thing that will kill a Rubber Tree. If you do not water it at least once a week (twice a week if you live in a dry place) it will not be able to grow or even maintain itself. Of course, you can over water it. You never want its roots to be sitting in water. Make sure any pot you use for a Rubber Tree has adequate drainage.

Rubber Trees are also known for their root development. Depending on the plant, watering, fertilizing, etc, it can take as little as six months for a Rubber Tree to out-grow its pot becoming “pot (or root) bound”. Both over-watering and being pot bound will make the leaves turn yellow.

When a leaf is cut or ripped off you will see a white sticky sap bleed out of the plant. That sap is how this plant got its name. I do not know all the science behind it but that sap (or sap from close relative to the Rubber Tree) can be use to make a rubber or something like rubber. Like I said I do not know all the details. I do know that the sap can irritate skin, so if you are sensitive-skinned person avoid getting the sap on you. If you do, wash it off ASAP.

It should go without saying, but I will say it anyway. DO NOT eat this plant, TEACH kids/pets that it is not okay to mess with this plant (for their own safety).

(sorry this info is not in the post titled Rubber Tree, I thought it had saved that post but I guess not, lol. My bad!!)

Look up Rubber Tree for Pictures, I cannot get the pictures in the post!

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Niki

Rubber Tree

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Niki

Goldfish Plant

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( This Goldfish plant is about seven months old, I started it from three cuttings that were given to me by my mother-in-law. Her cuttings died, but mine did not. I was nice and broke the plant up so she could have one.)

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(Picture of Goldfish Plant Flower from  homepage.mac.com)

This plant is named for its flowers; they are shaped and colored like goldfish (orange).   A great feature to the Goldfish plant is that it can bloom throughout the year (Late Spring/Early Summer, Mid Summer, Late Summer/Early Fall).

  Even though it is categorized as a Tropical plant, the Goldfish plant can survive in not so tropical places (anywhere that is above 40 degrees).    It likes high humidity.  It can go into a “resting period”, so do not freak when it drops leaves. When this happens just cut back on the watering for a month or so, then return to your normal watering schedule and it should be okay.

Goldfish Plants can be grown indoors and outdoors, however if growing outdoor you will have to bring it in for the winter if the temperature in your area gets below 60 degrees

Propagation of this plant is done by cuttings or layering, I have tried both ways and success varies for both. There are no seeds, the flowers are sterile.

 Its height really depends on how you prune it.  I have known people that cut every stem when it reaches 18” (then put the cutting in the plants dirt, this makes for a thick bush like plant, which I like).        

Goldfish plants like full direct light occasionally, but do best in light shade (indirect light).  Plant’s that get a lot of light tend to bloom more.  

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(The leaves are glossy and small, you can see how they compare to my fingers.     The leaves do not get much bigger then you see here.)

 

Your skin could become irritated by handling this plant (or you could have an allergic reaction), so use caution when handling this plant for the first time.     To be on the safe side, do not go rubbing your face (eyes) after handling a goldfish plant and wash hands after touching.

 

 

 

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Niki

The Color of Starter Jars

In the last post you seen the glass jar I had my Mother-in-Law Tongue cuttings in, did you notice the color? It is green. While I was potting that plant and looking at my jar, I thought about writing this post.

Does color matter? Yes, it does. I have used many different color jars over my years of growing plants and here is what have come up with:

Clear: Clear has to be the worst color (yes, I know it is not a “color” but you know what I mean). Yeah, it lets in a lot of light but all that light can burn budding roots. If you do use a clear jar for cuttings make sure you put them in another color one when roots start showing or cover with something like foil. This applies to any light color jar.

Green (dark): I love my green jar; anything I put in there grows. It lets enough light get to the so-to-be-roots without burnings.

Blue: Blue has not worked well for me (dark or light blue), you would think it would be the same as green but it is not. I am not wise to the science behind colors but i think blue is more “reflective” then green (please, someone correct me if I am wrong).

Red (or pink)/Orange/Yellow: These are other bad colors for starter jars. I think they are just to “loud” for the plants.

The color is also important when tying plant up (like climbing plants). Black is best in this case.

This discussion will continue in later posts, in the mean time let me know what you think!

Here are some links about the color of light and plant growth, which applies since the light is colored in the jars:

(links open in New Window)

http://www.colormatters.com/science_faq2.html - I do not really agree with their take on what colors plants like and dislike. I have never found a plant that likes red.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Does_color_affect_plant_growth - “Aside from growth, the color of light can influence the timing of plant flowering and fruiting. It’s thought that light rich in the red wavelengths encourages tomato plants to flower and then fruit.”. I like how this Wiki Answer talks about the “wavelengths” of light, however it is incomplete.

http://www.ghorganics.com/New%20Findings%20on%20How%20Mulch%20Color%20Can%20Affect%20Food%20Plants.htm - I will have to send this link to my friend over at http://inthegarden.today.com and see if they want to try this out!!

http://ca.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080627180038AAq3ugV&show=7 - See what others say at Yahoo Anwsers!! I would not put to much stock in something you read on AssociatedContent.com (“Source” for the first answer), all the articles are written by ‘normal’ people and most of the CP’s there could not find their way out of a paper bag!! Do not get me wrong, there may be a hand full of CP’s that know what they are talking about but they are few and far between.

 

 


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The first step is cutting a leaf from a well grown plant (do not go cutting up too young of a plant, make sure it is at least two years old and has a good number of leafs). Cut one of the outer leaves so you do not disturb the growth of the plant you are cutting it from and cut close to the base. put the cut leaf(s) in water. As you can see in the first picture, I had mine in a glass jar. I recommend glass jars, one that is heavy enough to hold the tall leafs without tipping over. Only an inch or two of the leaf needs to be underwater.

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The amount of time is takes from cutting the leaf and being able to pot baby plants varies, it could take as little as one month or as long as six months. It really depends on the amount of sun/water/fun/etc.. the cut leaf(s) get. I like to put a pinch of fertilizer in the fresh water when you just putting the cut leaf in the water.

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In the next few pictures here, you will see what the babies look like. I have learned that you do not want to pot these babies too soon, wait until the roots are thick (for the size of the baby plant) and the baby plant is about three inches tall. You can let them grow to around eight inches tall in the water. The plants I let grow to eight inches (in the water) grew better when I potted them.

When potting the babies you need to trim the original “cutting” an inch or so from the bottom. One of the things I love about these plants is that you can put that piece you just trimmed back into the water and it will grow more. The “cutting” leafs you see in these pictures have given me four pots worth of Mother-in-Law Tongue plants (I have killed one pot’s worth, so I only have three now).

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The Plants Potted!

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